INSIDE THE FASHION INDUSTRY - Reinventing Small Fashion: Why Made-to-Order Is a Smart Move for Emerging Designers
- Barbara Sessim
- Oct 22
- 3 min read
Updated: Oct 23
Ok, ok, ok - I admit I’ve been feeling a bit uncreative lately… but let’s face it, finding current topics that don’t somehow involve tariffs has been quite a challenge. However, Vogue’s articles have helped me stay up to date and, most importantly, reminded me why I’m here: to write insightful blogs for emerging designers who need guidance navigating what’s new in the fashion industry. So, with that being said, let’s dive into another blog inspired by the Vogue article “Why More Designers Are Adopting a Made-to-Order Model.”
Across the industry, more independent labels are swapping bulk runs for made-to-order (MTO) production, making pieces only after a customer buys. For emerging designers, MTO isn’t just a sustainability talking point: it’s a practical strategy to protect cash flow, preserve creative control, and build a premium client experience. Below I explain the model, why it matters for new brands, the direct budget and marketing implications, and clear next steps you can take.
What MTO is?
MTO means production starts after an order is placed - a “pull” model that reduces finished-goods inventory and waste, but brings longer lead times and a different cost structure than make-to-stock. Investopedia
Why are emerging designers adopting it?
Protects cash flow & limits risk. You avoid big upfront production spends and unsold inventory - a big deal when funds are tight. Vogue Business
Strengthens sustainability and brand story. Producing less aligns with conscious consumers and gives you a craft-driven narrative to sell. Wallpaper*
Grants creative independence. Less reliance on wholesale means you set timing, product complexity, and pricing - useful when retailers demand long credit terms or large minimums. Vogue Business
What does this mean for your budget and operations?
Lower upfront cost, higher unit cost. You’ll spend less before sales, but per-unit production can be pricier without scale. Price accordingly. Corporate Finance Institute+1
Flip in cash flow: Consider deposits or full pre-payment to fund production and protect margins. Vogue Business
Lead-time management: Communicate delivery expectations clearly - and build production partners who can deliver quality on smaller runs. Wallpaper*
Marketing & brand strategy — practical moves that work
Sell the wait: Make lead times part of the premium - highlight craftsmanship, custom fit, limited materials. Vogue
Use pre-orders & waitlists: Generate demand before you commit fabric and labour; convert interest into cash. Wallpaper*
Hybrid approach: Keep a small ready-to-wear capsule for discovery and showrooms, and MTO for signature or occasion pieces. This balances discovery with lower risk. Vogue Business
Things to watch for
Customer discovery: Wholesale still helps you learn what the broader market wants. Too-early full MTO can limit that insight. Vogue Business
Scaling pain points: If demand spikes, small-batch production can be an obstacle; plan partnerships and SOPs before you need them. GAINSystems
Quick action plan: how to test MTO this season
Run a capsule MTO drop (4-6 looks) with pre-orders and a clear lead time. Track conversion and feedback. Wallpaper*
Require a deposit (30-100%) to fund production and protect cash flow. Vogue Business
Craft marketing around process & scarcity - studio BTS, maker stories, measurement options. Vogue
Maintain a small ready-to-wear selection for discovery channels (showrooms/retail). Vogue Business
Made-to-order gives emerging designers a practical way to protect margins, control production, and build a brand around craft and intent, but it must be executed with firm operations, clear communication, and smart pricing. Start small, measure everything, and scale the parts that work!
If you want, I’ll map a one-page MTO launch plan (pricing template + deposit schedule + 8-week timeline) tailored to your collection! Book your free 30-minute strategy call via the link below.