INSIDE THE FASHION INDUSTRY – Why Fashion Brands Are Building In-House Studios & Ateliers and What That Means for Small Labels

In the midst of rising global tariffs, tightened budgets, and increasing demand for real-time digital content, fashion brands are investing heavily in in-house studios and ateliers to take control of their product development and storytelling. From internal content creation to in-house pattern-making and sample production, this shift is reshaping the industry - and emerging designers must pay close attention.

The Strategic Shift Toward In‑House Fashion Studios

Major fashion houses like SKIMS, Zara, and Gucci are leading the movement by building their own photo and video production teams and internal ateliers. In doing so, they reduce dependency on third-party agencies and external sampling partners, which not only lowers costs over time but also ensures faster turnaround and full creative control.

In 2025, SKIMS unveiled its plans for global expansion, including flagship stores and internal content and product development operations. As reported by The Business of Fashion, the brand aims to create “the Apple store of apparel,” by scaling in‑house teams for content, design, and development across markets. The Business of Fashion+3The Business of Fashion+3mysupplier.pt+3.

The Los Angeles flagship store on Sunset Boulevard is a physical manifestation of this approach: immersive, internal design built to support SKIMS’ integrated branding and content strategy, as detailed by Archiscene and FashionNetwork. LinkedInThe Business of Fashion.

Macroeconomic Pressures and the Appeal of In‑House Control

With the rise of U.S. tariffs and trade uncertainty, many brands are reevaluating reliance on external vendors. Vogue Business reports that Gen Z-facing and luxury houses are localizing parts of their operations and emphasizing internal capabilities to maintain brand consistency and cost control. LinkedIn.

Meanwhile, Gucci - amid falling demand and organizational restructuring - has accelerated strategic shifts under Kering leadership. With sales down 25% in recent quarters, the luxury group is focusing on internal alignment and creative restructuring rather than outsourcing, according to both Reuters and Business of Fashion. The Business of Fashion+4reuters.com+4wsj.com+4.

What This Means for Emerging Fashion Brands

For emerging labels, this industry shift presents a clear challenge - and opportunity. Relying on external partners for sampling, content creation, and pattern-making can be slow and expensive - while uncertain tariffs further disrupt timelines and costs. Emerging designers must consider building lean internal capabilities, such as basic DIY photo/video workflows, digital sampling tools like CLO 3D, or small-scale atelier partnerships to retain quality and control.

Looking Ahead: Building a More Resilient Brand Model

In‑house studios and ateliers offer more than cost savings - they’re about owning your timeline, quality, and aesthetic. For small brands, investing in strategic internal content creation and ideation tools, even incrementally, builds flexibility and responsiveness. As fashion becomes increasingly digital and global logistics more volatile, self‑sufficiency is now a critical asset.

I offer coaching services to help emerging designers create a tailored business plan aligned with their needs. I guide them through budgeting, cost analysis, and strategic decision‑making to navigate difficult and changing times like now. If you're an emerging designer looking for personalized support, you can schedule a free 30-minute strategy call through the link below:

https://go.oncehub.com/BarbaraSessim